Kaiseki originated four centuries ago as a light repast served during the tea ceremony. Its name comes from the word for the warm stones placed over the stomach to quell the hunger pangs of Zen acolytes. In keeping with tea philosophy, this meal “is a series of seasonal morsels, prepared simply, with careful distinctions between hot and cold dishes, appropriate vessels and visual appeal. The aim is to showcase the natural essence of the food. This chakaiseki (tea kaiseki) introduced an esthetic code to the cuisine of Japan.
Kaiseki, the beautiful, formal cuisine served at a traditional restaurant, or ryōtei, is deeply influenced by chakaiseki. But unlike its rarefied ancestor, it is not so codified or so frugal. To underscore this fact, it is sometimes written with different characters that mean "sitting together." Kaiseki is not simply food, but a total environment of elegant refinement. Ryōtei are typically located in a lovely house with gardens. Each party is given its own room, decorated with a seasonal scroll and flowers, and is assigned a bevy of kimonoed waitresses. It offers what for the Japanese is the ultimate luxury—privacy and a retreat from the world.
A kaiseki meal is a sequence of small courses. Everything is seasonal, fresh, prepared with a light but often stunningly original touch. There is one soup and an odd number of dishes, accompanied by sake or beer. The dishes would certainly include sashimi and a variety of preparations of fish, vegetables and perhaps chicken or beef. Rice, served only after the last of the alcohol has been drunk, marks the end of the meal. This might be followed by fresh fruit, tea, or perhaps a sweet and matcha, the frothy, thick, grass-green tea of the tea ceremony. All throughout, only the finest lacquerware and plates, often antiques, are used, and a quiet appreciation of them is also one of the pleasures of kaiseki.
Ordering kaiseki is by set price. The menu is decided by the ryōtei, but when making a reservation, let the chef know if there is anything you cannot eat. Fine ryōtei require a reservation a day or more in advance, because they must procure fresh ingredients and plan each day's menus. Cancelling shortly before the reserved time is therefore just not done. Kaiseki is very expensive; expect it to start at around ¥8000. In Kyoto, the home of kaiseki, one economical and recommended way to dine in a ryōtei is to go at lunchtime and order a bentō, an elegant arrangement of tidbits and rice in a lacquered box.
Kaiseki celebrates seasonal foods at the peak of their flavor, and autumn is the most glorious time for gastronomes. Colder waters produce the most succulent seafood and the forests are full of fragrant mushrooms and nuts. Watch for rice steamed with sweet chestnuts. Mmm.
Check out Gateway to Japan's regional chapters for listings of our favorite kaiseki establishments.
Photos are of Kitcho, a famed ryotei in the Arashiyama district of Kyoto.
