In the middle of the seventh lunar month, which most areas today approximate by August 14–16, the Japanese believe that the spirits of the dead return to their earthly homes. This Buddhist rite has evolved into a three-day holiday for family reunions. Travel can be congested, but it is well worth the effort to seek out Bon observances.
During the evenings of Bon, softly glowing lanterns fill the cemeteries, and in some regions people leave their doors open and prepare a special feast of vegetables for the returning souls. Bon Odori, hypnotic outdoor dancing, is performed everywhere. Local versions of ancient Bon dances are of special interest. Bon Odori represents a joyful dance performed by a disciple of the Buddha, who succeeded in releasing the ghost of his mother from her suffering by making appropriate offerings.
On the last night, the souls of the dead are guided by fire back to their proper realm. Flames are lit—from oil lanterns and candles to raging bonfires—and in many areas lanterns are set adrift on a body of water to guide the spirits back across the sea, creating a poetically beautiful spectacle.
O-Bon Favorites
Aug. 12–15: Awa-Odori. Tokushima. The most famous Bon Odori in the land. The streets of this Shikoku Island port city are packed with tens of thousands of dancers performing a distinctive "crazy dance" to the sound of shamisen and clanging gongs.
Aug. 15: Hanase no Hi-Matsuri. The village of Hanase north of Kyoto holds its annual Hi-matsuri (fire festival). A thousand torches are set on fire and villagers compete to throw the torches into an elevated basket. The village of Hirogawara, also near Kyoto. holds its own Hi-matsuri on August 23.
August 16: Daimonji Okuribi. Kyoto. The dead are sent away with fires burning on the hills surrounding the city. The largest fire is in the shape of the Chinese character “Dai” (Great).
Just about every community has its Bon observances. Visit a Buddhist cemetery or ask the tourism help desk about Bon Odori. We list dozens of Bon observances all over Japan in our Matsuri chapter. Order you copy of Gateway to Japan, the Digital Edition, here.
