When the oppressive heat of August bears down, nothing revives a flagging appetite like a serving of chilled noodles, mounded in enticing swirls upon a bamboo mat and adorned with a bright green leaf that appears to have fluttered down upon a breeze from a canopy of Japanese maples. Cooked al dente and plunged into ice water to preserve a toothsome, sinuous texture, the noodles are seasoned by dipping into a dark, flavorful sauce made by boiling down shoyu (soy sauce), sweet rice wine, and dashi broth. Finely chopped scallions and grated wasabi lend a kick to the chamber ensemble of textures and tastes that make this perfect summer eating.
Like pasta in Italy, noodles in Japan were introduced from China, but once entrenched, noodles acquired an exalted place in their new home. They have permuted into many forms. Ramen, which has ascended to a cult-like status in the West, is the Japanese interpretation of Chinese-style soup noodles. Soba, a buckwheat noodle, ranges from pale blond to a hearty dark gray; sometimes powdered green tea is mixed in, turning it into green cha-soba. Udon is a plump, white wheat noodle. Also made from white wheat but formed as thin as a pencil lead is Somen.
Cheap, fast and tasty, soba and udon are a popular lunch or snack. You'll find noodle stands in railway stations, where the few minutes of waiting for the next train is just enough time to consume a bowl. Most noodle shops serve various types of noodles, but there are also centuries-old soba establishments that have adhered to serving nothing but their signature dish, in strict accordance with their centuries-old recipes.
It's considered not impolite to practically inhale noodles, with a great slurping noise considered appropriate, indeed essential, for the appreciation of this cuisine.
Summer noodles 101:
ざるそば Zaru-soba. Chilled buckwheat soba with dipping sauce, also called mori- or seiro-soba.
天ざる Ten-zaru. Zaru-soba with crispy deep-fried tempura prawns and vegetables on the side.
そうめん Sōmen. Fine wheat vermicelli, served in ice water; the noodles are scooped out and dipped in sauce.
Hiyamugi. White wheat noodles of medium thickness, served like somen in ice water with a dipping sauce.
Hiyashi chūka. Chilled "Chinese style" ramen noodles served with cucumber, tomato, roast pork, egg, pickled red ginger, and a dressing of sesame oil, chicken broth, soy sauce, and vinegar.
For more about experiencing the best, authentic Japanese cuisine on your next visit to Japan, consult Gateway to Japan, Digital Edition.
Owariya 尾張屋
A quaint soba shop in the heart of Kyoto, in business since 1465 (so the noren curtain proclaims). Specialty is Hōrai-soba, servings of soba noodles stacked in small lacquer trays and eaten with a variety of condiments.
