There’s something cathartic about abandoning convention and common sense, which is perhaps why the Saidai-ji Eyo Hadaka Matsuri (Naked Festival) continues to entice nearly 10,000 enthusiasts some 500 years after the custom is said to have begun. On the third Saturday of every February, men and boys clad only in fundoshi (loincloths), douse themselves with icy water, and pile into the temple hall at a density that would make fire marshals weep.
Japanese is a rich and fascinating language. Among its many extraordinary qualities is its uniquely complex script, which combines two parallel phonetic syllabaries (kana) with Roman letters (rômaji), Arabic numerals (Arabia sûji), and of course Chinese characters (kanji). With five scripts used simultaneously, Japanese is often called the world’s most difficult writing system. As the joke about the Japanese class goes, “OK class, now you’ve learned Chinese characters. On to page 2!”
Winter is prime time for nabemono, one-pot stews that are cooked at the table in a large, earthenware casserole over a gas flame. Everyone eats out of the communal pot, plucking out morsels and dipping them in sauce. This is one of the most popular ways to dine in cold weather.
The ingredients arrive at the table in their raw state, beautifully arranged on large platters for your visual enjoyment before being put into the boiling stock. The waitress will get things going, but then it becomes "self-service," so it's worth knowing the basic rules.
The first things to go in the pot are ingredients that give flavor to the stock: clams, chicken, fish, leeks and shiitake mushrooms. Next comes everything else, except for delicate greens, usually mitsuba (trefoil) and shungiku (chrysanthemum leaves), which are thrown in at the last minute. Often added at the end are udon noodles or mochi (rice cakes), or cold rice and egg, to make zōsui (rice porridge). If the flame is too high, ask the waitress, “hi wo sagete kudasai.”
Sukiyaki is the most famous of Japan’s one-pot dishes. Less known but equally worthy is mizudaki (or mizutaki). This famous nabemono originated in Hakata, in northern Kyūshū, and is said to have been inspired by the Chinese. The broth used in mizudaki is a milky-white chicken stock. To it, one adds chunks of chicken on the bone (more flavorful), Chinese cabbage, carrot, tofu, leeks and fine "glass noodles" of bean protein. The cooked morsels are served with a tangy sauce of soy, citrus, grated radish and hot chili pepper.
Mizudaki is readily available throughout Japan. One of our favorites is Toriiwaro in the Nishijin district of Kyoto. It’s pricey, but you are paying for the splendid elegant Kyoto townhouse ambiance as well as for the delectable food. Do you have a favorite shop? Let us know!
CREDIT: KO SASAKI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
The New York Times recently noted that Shimokitazawa is considered by many to be Tokyo's "coolest neighborhood": "The low-key neighborhood of Shimokitazawa in western Tokyo is only one express-train stop from the sensory excesses of chaotic Shibuya — imagine Times Square, amplified — but it’s a world away in spirit. The area, locally called Shimokita, is populated by hip young Tokyoites drawn by the relaxed, small-town atmosphere that makes the neighborhood an anomaly in this bustling megalopolis. The narrow streets are easy to navigate and dense with local businesses, including a high concentration of vintage shops, unusual specialty stores and small boutiques stocked with wares from young artists and artisans."
Do you love Shimokita? What other Tokyo neighborhoods have won your heart? Share your treasures in the Comments section!
After 1.5 years of development, 750+ pages digitized and updated, and over 2600 Google Maps link added, Gateway to Japan, Digital Edition is finally here!
The legendary travel guide has been thoroughly updated and remastered, and is now available in a brand new eBook format. Embark on an adventure to the fascinating and wonderful land of sushi, karaoke, samurai and anime. There's never been a better time to visit Japan, and there's no better travel companion than Gateway to Japan, Digital Edition!
"Most comprehensive guidebook on Japan"
~ Forbes
"Gateway is not simply the best guidebook to Japan - it is the best single guide to any country I've ever visited.”
~ Jeffrey Steingarten, The Man Who Ate Everything
"This is truly a comprehensive guide to read in advance, use during a trip, and to refer to back home."
~ The Explorers Journal
"Even if you're not inclined to travel, get the book for the front essays on art, castles, history, matsuri, and my favorite chapter title: 'One-hour Japanese.'"
~ Tokyo Journal
When Emperor Akihito delivered a speech this past August hinting that he would like the Japanese parliament to change the law to allow him to retire, the New York Times noted that changing the law might re-open the sensitive topic of allowing a woman to be in line for the Chrysanthemum Throne. I've been proof-reading the Kyoto chapter of "Gateway to Japan" and came across of bit of history regarding the circumstances which led to an empress ascending to the throne in the 17th century:
“Iemitsu's sister [the Shogun's sister] had become Go-Mizuno'o's empress, reviving the classical tradition of powerful families marrying off their daughters to emperors. When a son was born, the Tokugawa pressured Go-Mizuno'o to abdicate in favor of the child. He resisted, however, and then the child died. In 1627, the emperor had another fight with the Tokugawa, over the assignment of "purple robes" to the abbots of Daitokuji and Myōshin-ji. Humiliated, Go-Mizuno'o abdicated in protest in 1629 and, breaking tradition, left his throne to a daughter, who became the first reigning empress in more than 850 years...” (Excerpt From: June Kinoshita. “Gateway to Japan, Digital Edition.”)
Freed from the restrictions the Tokugawa placed on reigning emperors, Go-MIzuno'o made the most of his retirement, designing masterpieces of Japanese architecture and gardens.
We just learned that the Benesse Art Site Naoshima is hosting the Setouchi Triennale again this year. Events and exhibits will be clustered around spring (just finished), summer and autumn this year, spread out over 18 venues among these beautiful, rustic isles of the Inland Sea. I'll never forget my first visit to Benesse House and the Chichu Art Museum, shortly after the site first opened. I was blown away by the world-class works of art, the beauty of the buildings designed by Ando Tadao, and wonderful hybrid of the best of contemporary and classical Japanese culture embodied in the accommodations and kaiseki dinner at Benesse House. I have yearned to return ever since, to see how this region has developed into an international art destination. If you have the chance to go this year, don't pass it up!
A takoyaki vendor in the hectic food and shopping area of Dotonbori.CreditNoah Fecks for The New York Times
Wishing you all a happy and fulfilling 2016! We are looking forward to completing the update and digitization of Gateway to Japan. Please subscribe to follow our progress! And enjoy these breathtaking images from NHK's 2016 calendar.
Say it ain't so! We were distraught to read in this New York Times article that the famous wholesale fish market will be moving next year to make way for a new road to transport visitors to the 2020 Olympics. Those wanting to take in colorful, raucous scenes of massive frozen bluefin tuna being auctioned off will have to travel Toyosu. What will happen to the dozens of surrounding small shops that cater to the daily crowds of workers? Some have been in business for generations. What are your favorite Tsukiji haunts?
